Report: Dirty Fashion Disrupted | Leaders and laggards revealed
One year on from Dirty Fashion: On track for transformation
this report assesses where global clothing com
panies and viscose producers stand in the transition towards responsible viscose. Through detailed scrutiny of
91 brands’ and retailers’ transparency and sourcing policies, and producers’ responsible production plans, we
examine progress to date and gaps in existing commitments and pledges.
When our Dirty Fashion campaign launched in 2017, there was little knowledge of the environmental and social
impacts of viscose production within the clothing industry. To the extent that brands and retailers were aware of
sustainability problems in the viscose supply chain, they were mostly focused on the sourcing of timber for use
in the production of wood-based dissolving pulp, which is the starting material for most viscose. In partnership
with the NGO Canopy, many had pledged to stop sourcing pulp from ancient and endangered forests. Through
‘Detox’ commitments with Greenpeace and other initiatives, such as the ZDHC Foundation’s Programme on
hazardous chemicals, some had also taken action to curb pollution from wet processing by committing to phase
out the use of toxic substances in textiles dyeing and finishing.
However, almost without exception, brands and retailers had neglected to address a key part of the production
chain causing significant pollution and taking a heavy toll on the health and livelihoods of communities living
in the shadow of viscose factories.
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