OECD | PFASs and alternatives in cosmetics: report on commercial availability and current uses

This report examines the commercial availability and current uses of PFASs and alternatives in cosmetics, as well as their market penetration, feasibility, effectiveness and cost.

Thirty-six PFASs (polymeric and non-polymeric) were identified as intentionally added to cosmetics. PFASs provide a wide range of functions in cosmetic products, acting as hair and skin conditioning agents, emulsifiers, stabilisers, oil and water-resistant agents, lubricants, bulking agents and/or oil-resistant surfactants.

Technically and economically feasible alternatives to intentionally used PFASs in cosmetic products are widely available on the market, which implies a high substitution potential. However, stakeholders have indicated that substituting PFASs in cosmetics often requires the entire product reformulation to provide the same functionalities to the product, and like-for-like ‘drop-in’ replacements are unlikely to happen.